Ben Feldt, structural engineer, Feldt Consulting Engineers, delivers plans that detail how to correct Emerald Hill, saving it from bad remodels, missing and insufficient structure, to rehabilitate it for the next 50 years.

Here’s his sketch of the first floor, with formal drawings to come:

Ben’s notes:

1. Replace this existing section of 2-2×10 with double 1 3/4×9 ¼ LVL. This existing 2-2×10 has a pipe running through it that will be removed. Nail LVL’s together with 4 rows of 16d nails at 12” o.c.
2. Replace 2-2×12 header with new 2-2×12 header continuous over window and door. Provide a single king and jack stud each side of header. The studs between the door and window should be jack stud (run to bottom of continuous header) and be 2-2×4 (this could be single 2×4 if necessary to fit new door and window but double is preferred.)
3. Replace existing glulam with triple 1 3/4×14 LVL header. Remove existing double top plates. The LVL’s may be ripped to 13” deep to keep the same overall clearance that is currently there. Support each end of the beam with 3-2×6 jack studs. Furr-out side walls of library to 2×6 thickness or replace with 2×6 studs altogether.
4. Header shall be 2-1 3/4×11 ¼ (or 11 7/8). Support each end with 3-2×4 jack studs.
5. Beam is severely undersized. Replace with five 1 3/4×9 ¼ LVL beam. Bolt beam together with (2) 1/2″ diameter thru-bolts, one 2” from top and one 2” from bottom, not staggered). Attach common floor joists to side of new beam with Simpson LUS210 hangers.
6. Reinforce beam with single 1 3/4×9 ¼ LVL nailed to outside face of existing 2-2×10 beam. Nail new LVL to existing 2-2×10 with 4 rows of 16d nails at 12” o.c.
7. Use Simpson HU610 on new reinforced beam. Use Simpson HUS210-2 on existing 2-2×10 beam.
8. Add five 1 3/4×9 ¼ LVL beam. Bolt beam together with (2) 1/2″ diameter thru-bolts, one 2” from top and one 2” from bottom, not staggered).
9. Add double 1 3/4×9 ¼ LVL beams. Nail LVL’s together with 4 rows of 16d nails at 12” o.c. These 2 beams should sit no more than 24” apart and allow the toilet drain pipe to traverse right to left, essentially a “chase”.
10. Replace header with 2-1 3/4×14 LVL. Support each end with 3-2×4 jack studs.
11. Add/replace header with 2-1 3/4×11 ¼ (or 11 7/8) LVL. Support each end with 3-2×4 jack studs.
12. Furr out wall as discussed to allow plumbing drain clearance.
13. Use Simpson HU410.
14. New 2-2×12 concealed/flush beam. Support each end with 2-2×4 jack studs.
15. New 2-2×12 header. Support each end with 1-2×4 jack stud.

Here’s the sketch for the second floor: